How To Sew French Seams: A Step By Step Guide with Video

How To Sew French Seams: A Step By Step Guide with Video

French seams are an elegant seam finish done on a regular sewing machine. Learn how to sew a French seam with these instructions.

How to sew French seams - learn to sew a French seam finish

Hey y’all, today I’m going to be sharing how to sew French seams. I’ve got step by step French seam tutorial video and photos in this post. You can do this with your regular sewing machine to finish raw edges and prevent fraying. A French seam may take a little time, but it’s simple and elegant. I’ve used French seams on things like this peasant top and this silk t-shirt.

Why Should You Finish Your Seams?

A seam finish is something done to the seam allowances to keep them from fraying and unravelling. With some fabrics, seam finishes are unnecessary. For example, knit fabrics do not fray like woven fabrics. But for most fabrics, seam finishes extend the life of the garment or project. And in clothing, seam finishes keep extra frayed fabric threads away from your body.

What is a French Seam?

A French seam is a seam finish you can do on a regular sewing machine. It’s great for sheer fabrics like chiffon when you don’t want pinked or overlocked seam finishes to show through your garments. And since it’s double sewn, it’s a strong seam finish to use on your sewing project.

A French seam is a self enclosed seam finish, meaning that all the raw edges are enclosed within the seam. They share that characteristic with a flat felled seam. The difference between French seams and flat felled seams is that French seams are generally left alone after stitching, while flat felled seams are usually topstitched down. But both types of seams can begin with stitching the wrong sides of the fabric together and share high durability because they are double stitched

Pros of French seams: easy to do, neat finish with no special machine (like a serger) required, can be adjusted to very narrow seam allowances, great on a straight seam, suitable for light- to medium-weight fabric like silk, organza, voile, gauze, etc.
Cons: Takes more time, can be tricky on curves and seams that cross other seams (like an armhole or sleeve), requires planning in order of construction and math to determine seam allowance amounts for first and second passes of stitching, can be bulky with heavy fabrics.

Sewing French Seams

Before you sew French seams, you need to know what kind of seam allowance you are working with and calculate the amount you’ll use for the first and the second line of stitching. For example, if you have 5/8 inch seam allowances you’d do a first seam at ¼ inch (or 2/8) and then the second stitching line would be 3/8 (2/8 + 3/8 = 5/8). Basically you want your second seam allowance to be at least 1/8 more than the first line, and you want the total to be equal to the total seam allowance in the pattern. Another example – if you have a 1/2 inch seam allowance, make your first pass at 1/8 inch, and the second pass at 3/8 inch (1/8+3/8=4/8 or 1/2).

Steps to Make a French Seam

I have a video below that you can also watch on YouTube here showing how to sew French seams. Or you can scroll below the video for written instructions. Note that in the video I used contrasting threads so you can see the seam, but generally you would want to match the thread.

Time needed: 10 minutes.

How to Sew French Seams

  1. Place fabric wrong sides together

    Line the edge of the fabric up precisely and pin pieces together.First steps to sew a French seam

  2. Stitch seam.

    Use your calculations explained above to stitch the first line of stitching. I often use the edge presser foot as a guide for very narrow seams.

  3. Press the seam allowance toward one side.

    This helps prepare for the next step.

  4. Fold the fabric right sides together and press.

    Make sure your fold is on the seam’s edge.

  5. Stitch a second time.

    Use the calculations explained above to stitch the remaining seam allowance amount.Final steps to sew a French seam

  6. Press the seam

    This finishes the seam and makes it look more professional. Image 6 shows this finish from the wrong side.

  7. Seam view from the right side of the fabric.
  8. If you look closely, the raw edges of the seam are enclosed inside.

If you are sewing French seams on a curve, you’ll have the best outcome if you keep the seam very narrow. With a 1/2 inch seam allowance, I would sew the first pass at 1/4 inch, then trim the allowance down to 1/8 inch using scissors or a rotary cutter. Then the second pass would also be 1/4 inch, and it would cover the previous stitching entirely.

For more seam finish options, check out this post that covers several ways to finish a seam.

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Fabric Getting Stuck in Sewing Machine Fix

Fabric Getting Stuck in Sewing Machine Fix

A simple trick to keep your fabric from getting stuck in the hole of your needle plate

A simple trick to keep your fabric from getting stuck in your needle plate

Hey y’all, today I’m sharing a really simple tip to help you if your fabric is getting stuck in your sewing machine. This sometimes happens at the beginning of a seam. The edge of the fabric sometimes gets sucked into the hole of the needle plate when you start a seam. If this is happening to you, there’s a really easy fix.

Watch the video below or on YouTube here to see how to keep your fabric out of your sewing machine.

Follow these steps to keep your fabric from getting sucked into your needle plate and stuck:

  1. Hold the needle thread while you hand crank the flywheel toward you one time. This will grab the bobbin thread and bring it up through the hole in the needle plate.
  2. Use scissors to sweep under the presser foot and grab the bobbin thread.
  3. Hold both threads to the back of the presser foot and pull slightly as you begin stitching.
Holding threads at presser foot to pull up bobbin thread
How to keep fabric from getting stuck in a sewing machine

Check out this post for another simple sewing tip. If you have ever wondered what that button on the presser foot is for, then reading that post will solve the mystery.

Self Leveling Presser Foot for Sewing - J Foot Tutorial

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How To Remove Serger Stitches the Easy and Fast Way

How To Remove Serger Stitches the Easy and Fast Way

Have you ever wondered how to undo serger stitches without ripping them out one by one? Here’s how!

Overlocked fabric edge with a seam ripper showing how to undo serger stitches

Hey y’all, today I’m sharing an answer to one of your sewing questions, a quick tip on how to easily remove serger stitches. There’s a fast trick to undo an overlock stitch and I’ve got both a video tutorial and a picture/written tutorial. You’ll see how to undo a serged seam on your fabric without having to use a seam ripper and ripping every single stitch.

P.S. If you’re looking for how to seam rip straight stitches from a regular sewing machine, check out this post.

Anatomy of a 4 Thread Overlocker Stitch

Most of the time, my serger has two needle threads and two loopers threaded to do a 4-thread overlock stitch. So the tutorial I’m showing today will cover how to remove that. The same technique can be used to remove a 3-thread overlock stitch, you’d just skip the first step.

In order to understand how we’re going to remove all this stitching without making a mess, it’s important to understand what an overlock stitch looks like on the raw edge of the fabric. So I’ve got an image below.

Right side and wrong side of a serger or overlocker stitch

If you look at the threads in the image above, I have hot pink thread on the left needle, blue on the right needle, white on the upper looper, and black on the lower looper. The pink and blue needle threads are much easier to see on the right side of the fabric than on the wrong side of the fabric. And the lower looper threads are barely visible on the right side.

When you’re unpicking the seam, you want to make sure you’re doing it with the right side of the stitching up. And since your threads will not likely be different colors like mine in the image above, it’s easiest to look for the side that has the two lines of straight stitching.

How To Remove Serger Stitches (Fast!)

I made a video showing how to quickly undo serging threads. You can watch it below or on YouTube here if you prefer. If you like the written tutorial, scroll below the video.

Steps to remove serger stitches easily

Time needed: 5 minutes.

How to Remove Serger Stitches

  1. Place your fabric right side up. Locate the right needle thread.

    Place the tip of your seam ripper, a straight pin, or the tip of your scissors under a stitch from the right needle thread. This is the line of straight stitching closest to the edge of the fabric.

  2. Remove the right needle thread.

    Using the seam ripper, straight pin or scissors loosen one stitch to the right side. Pull gently until the thread comes out of the entire seam. It will look like image 2 above when the thread is removed.

  3. Locate the left needle thread.

    The left needle thread stitches are easiest to grab between the loops of the upper looper thread. Find one, loosen with a seam ripper, pin or scissors, and pull that thread out.

  4. Remove the looper stitches.

    Once you have the threads from the left and right needles removed, the looper stitches will pull off like magic, since nothing is holding them any longer.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).

Tips and Tricks

And that’s how you undo serger stitches the easy way! Here are some more tips and tricks to remove serger stitches.

  • This seam ripper (affiliate link) is my favorite one. It has an easy to grip handle and when you’re ripping a seam from a regular sewing machine the end comes in handy to pick out all the extra little threads.
  • On a long seam, you may find it easier to use your seam ripper to cut the needle threads in a few places and remove the overlocking a section at a time.
  • If you have a thread tail on your seam still, you can locate the needle threads in it and start pulling. This only works if the tail hasn’t been stretch to the point where you can’t tell which thread is which.

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Hem Pants Yourself (with or without a Sewing Machine)

Hem Pants Yourself (with or without a Sewing Machine)

Learn how to hem pants at home, by hand stitching or using a sewing machine.

How to Hem Pants - text on a black pant leg

Hey y’all, today I’m going to show you how to hem pants with either hand stitching or using a sewing machine. I won’t be sharing any no-sew methods of hemming, because we want these hems to last and not ruin your clothes for the future. With a few supplies that cost less than a trip to the tailor, you can have a new hem that is the correct length for your pair of pants. And the bonus is that once you know how to do this you won’t ever have to beg or pay someone else to sew a new hemline for you.

It seems like around this time of year every year I get requests for pants hemming. I think it has to do with all the proms and graduations and weddings this time of year. And while I won’t hem your pants for you unless you’re in my Favorites contacts on my phone, I will share with you how to hem your own trousers. And if you already know how to hem pants, this post is perfect to send to people who come out of the woodwork asking you to hem their clothes.

Note that this post is not about hemming jeans. Though jeans are pants, they are generally hemmed differently than dress pants with a straight stitch on the machine. I have another tutorial with video to hem jeans here.

Supplies for Hemming Pants

Pictured below are the minimum supplies you need to hem shorts or pants (because the technique is the same for both).

Ruler, pins, thread, sewing needle and scissors are supplies needed to hem pants

To shorten your pants (or lengthen your trousers) you’ll need:

  • All purpose thread that matches your pants
  • A hand sewing needle
  • Scissors
  • A ruler or measuring tape of some sort, even if it’s just one you print from the internet or a screenshot on your phone.
  • Pins. You can either use straight pins (handy for general sewing) or safety pins, but you need something to hold the hem after you cuff the legs to the right length and take the pants off.
  • An iron. In a pinch try a flat iron or curling iron for hair.
  • Optional: some kind of marking tool to help mark your new hems. In a pinch, even a pen or pencil can work as long as it will wash out and you only mark on the wrong side of the fabric.
  • Optional: a seam ripper. You can use scissors to unpick existing hems instead, but a seam ripper might make things easier.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).

If you don’t have any of the supplies, you can buy this kit (affiliate link) with all of the essentials. And in fact, that would also make a good graduation gift for anyone going off to college.

How to hem your own trousers

I’ve made a very thorough video tutorial for how to hem your pants without a sewing machine that you can watch below or on YouTube here. If you do have a sewing machine, watch the beginning of this video to see how to mark and cut your pants. Then scroll further down in the post to see how to use a sewing machine to sew a blind hem stitch.

Mark Your Hems

The first step is to try the trousers on, fold them up to the desired length, and pin that length in place. Wear the pair of shoes or heels you intend to wear with the pants when you’re folding your hem.

If your pants are too short and you need to let them down before hemming, start by unpicking the current hem with a seam ripper or scissors. Then press the bottom of the pants with an iron to get rid of the crease from the original hem. You can start with that step if you’re shortening the pants too. Depending on how much shorter you need the pants to be you might be able to cut off the existing hems without having to unpick them.

It helps to look at your pants in front of a full-length mirror after they’re pinned to check your work.

Take the pants off. Measure the amount you folded up.

Turn your pants inside out. Mark the finished length, then measure down at least 1 1/4 inch up to 2 1/4 inches below the mark. Pants hems are generally 1 to 2 inches, and you need an extra 1/4 inch more than your finished hem length to fold under to prevent fraying. Cut off any excess fabric below this lower mark.

Press the bottom edge of fabric up 1/4 inch to the wrong side. Then fold again and press up the amount of your finished hem width. So, for example, if you want 1 inch finished hems you’d leave 1 1/4 inches below your desired final length, then press up 1/4 of an inch, then press up again 1 inch. The video above shows this more clearly. Pin.

Hand Hemming

Thread your needle and knot the end of the thread. Now we’re ready to sew. Poke your needle up through the cuff from between the pants and the fold and pull the thread through; the knot should be hidden between the pants and the folded edge. Now move the needle over about 1/2 inch. Holding the needle perpendicular to the pants let, poke it down through the folded edge and into the pants. Catch just a few threads of the pant leg on your needle and poke it back onto the wrong side. Pull the thread through. This is the first stitch.

Repeat this stitch every half an inch or so around the pants leg until you get back to where you started. You’ll see Then sew up through the folded edge only in the same place twice. On the second stitch, stop before you pull the thread loop all the way to the fabric. Instead, wind your needle through the thread loop 3 to 4 times, then pull it all the way tight to knot it. Cut the thread.

Sewing Machine Hemming

To use a sewing machine to hem your pants, fold, measure, mark and cut your pants as described above. Then watch the video below or on YouTube here to see how to hem pants with a sewing machine. I also have a blind hem picture tutorial in this post.

As you can see, the blind hem stitch on a sewing machine combines a zig zag stitch with a straight stitch to replicate the look of a hand sewn hem.

So, if you, like me, dislike hemming pants for others, bookmark this article. That way you can send the link to the next person who asks you to hem.

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How to Shorten a Zipper – Clear Guide with Pictures & Video

How to Shorten a Zipper – Clear Guide with Pictures & Video

Check out this step-by-step guide to shorten a metal zipper, shorten a plastic separating zipper, or a nylon zipper

How to shorten zippers - a tutorial

Hey y’all, today we’re going to talk about how to shorten zippers. This is one of your sewing questions answered and it’s going to be helpful in a project I’m sharing next week. There are several techniques to make a long zipper shorter and they change depending on what type of zipper you’re using and how it will be used. This tutorial will cover:

  • how to shorten a metal zipper
  • how to shorten a separating zipper
  • shortening a zipper from the bottom
  • making a zipper shorter from the top
  • how to remove metal zipper teeth
  • how to remove plastic zipper teeth
  • 3 ways to make a zipper stop

But I won’t be covering how to install zippers in this post. To see how to sew a zipper check this post. For invisible zipper installations check this post. Now let’s dive in to the specifics of how to shorten a zipper!

Parts of a Zipper

Zippers have two main parts – tape and teeth. These parts make up the majority of the zipper. They also have at least one pull, and stoppers at the top and bottom so that you can’t slide the zipper pull right off accidentally.

The first thing you need to know is what type of zipper teeth your zipper has. The main types are metal teeth, nylon coil teeth, and molded plastic teeth. These are pictured below. This determines whether you need to cut your zipper tape between the teeth or whether you can just cut through the teeth. With a metal zipper you need to cut between teeth. However, you can cut through nylon coil zippers. And a molded plastic zipper might be cut either way depending on the size of the teeth.

Different types of zippers - nylon coil, metal and molded plastic

Next you need to know whether you are using a separating zipper or a close ended zipper. Separating zippers are the type used on jackets. Close ended zippers are the more common ones, used on everything from zipper pouches to skirts. This determines whether you need to shorten from the zipper bottom or from the zipper top. Close ended zippers can be shortened from the bottom, and separating zippers should be shortened from the top.

Parts of a zipper - names for separating zipper parts

I’ve made a video that you can also watch on YouTube here showing all these zipper shortening techniques. You can also keep reading below the video for more details.

How to Shorten Zippers from the Bottom

If you are sewing a close ended zipper, you can shorten from the bottom of the zipper tape. This method is easier than shortening from the top because you can generally leave the zipper teeth below your new stopper. You’ll need scissors, thread, a needle or sewing machine, and possibly a match or other source of flame or fray check.

Measure from the top zipper stop and determine the final zipper length you want. Mark your zipper tape at this point. Cut the extra length off at least a half inch below this mark. If the zipper is a nylon coil, like an invisible zipper, or has small plastic teeth you can cut right through the teeth. If the teeth are larger or metal you need to cut in between them. You can use a flame held close to the cut end of the zipper tape is polyester (most are), seal the end of the tape and keep it from fraying. If the zipper tape is cotton or another fiber you will need to use the fray check instead.

Sew a new bottom zipper stop at the marked point by either hand stitching a whip stitch around the teeth or using a wide, very short stitch length zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine. Hand crank your machine for the first two stitches to make sure you’ve set your zig zag wide enough not to hit a tooth and break the needle.

Shorten a zipper from the bottom and sew a zipper stop

You don’t need to remove the zipper teeth below the stop unless they are so large that they will affect the stitching that will go over the bottom end of the zipper or make the fabric poke out. Keep reading for methods to remove zipper teeth.

How to Shorten a Metal Zipper from the Top

If you are sewing with a separating zipper, you need to shorten it from the top, because you need to keep the box and pin at the bottom. These are the parts you hook together beneath the pull tab to start joining the zipper when you zip it up. You also want to keep the heat seal patches at the bottom that modern separating zippers have. Those are the stiff parts of the zipper tape beside the box and pin that make it easier to manipulate that part of the zipper.

To make a metal zipper shorter you’ll need the same tools as mentioned above, plus pliers (needle nose type work best) and wire cutters. Measure your zipper from the bottom stop and mark your desired final length. You will cut off the excess zipper tape in between the teeth at least half an inch above this mark. BEFORE YOU CUT remove the zipper stops. I think it’s easier to remove these stops while the whole zipper is still intact.

To remove the zipper stops, use the wire cutters. Place the narrow part of the cutter on the inside of the stop on the tape. Squeeze gently to pry the edges of the stop up from the tape. Then switch to the needle nose pliers to pull the stop off the end of the tape. Set aside. Repeat with other top stop.

Now you can cut your zipper and use a flame held close to the tape or fray check to seal the zipper tape ends and keep them from fraying.

How to remove metal zipper teeth

How to Remove Metal Zipper Teeth

Next you need to remove the teeth between your mark and the top of the tape. I do this by cutting the ends of the teeth off with my wire cutters (when I can; this doesn’t always work) and then using the pliers to pull the remaining part of each tooth off.

Finally, reinstall the top stops above the last teeth you left on each side of the zipper tape. Slide the stopper onto the tape, then pinch it shut with the pliers. Test by pulling on it with your fingers and the pliers to make sure it is securely affixed. If you can’t pinch it closed you can also use a mallet and a nail set to hammer it closed onto the tape.

How to Shorten a Plastic Separating Zipper

The process to shorten a plastic separating zipper is basically the same as shortening a metal zipper, except you can’t reuse the top stops. Here are the steps:

  1. Measure from the bottom of the zipper and mark your desired finished length.
  2. Cut the zipper tape at least a half inch above your mark
  3. Seal the end of the zipper tape
  4. Use wire cutters and pliers to cut off and remove the zipper teeth above your mark
  5. Make new top stoppers (see below)
Shorten a zipper from the top

Check out the video above or the details on the metal zipper section to see more on removing plastic zipper teeth.

3 Ways to Make a Zipper Top Stopper

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).

There are a few different ways to make a new top stop. You can

  • Whip stitch a thread bump
  • Melt plastic zipper teeth
  • Buy zipper stops (affiliate link) to install

Whip stitching a new stop works well, but can look a little homemade. You can see an example below, but to make it look better use matching thread, not the contrasting thread I used to make it visible in photos.

Hand sew a zipper stop

Melting molded plastic zipper teeth into a new stop is the easiest of these methods, but has a risk of burns if you touch the hot plastic and can look messy. If you have a hard to match zipper color though, this matches.

Make a zipper stop from melting plastic

My favorite method is to install new metal zipper stops. This requires a purchase but gives the most professional results. The downside is that it can be hard to match colors and you may have to settle for coordinating instead of matching. You can buy these and see the metal zipper section for tips to install them.

Adding a purchased zipper stop

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How to Make and Sew Bias Tape

How to Make and Sew Bias Tape

Learn how to sew bias tape to finish edges on clothing and craft projects.

How to Make and Sew Bias Tape

I spent years of my sewing life hating bias tape. It was fiddly and took patience and attention to detail to sew it on correctly. And I never sewed it on correctly because I was trying to go fast. So instead of sewing in two passes, I’d sandwich it over the fabric edge and that just never turns out pretty.  Unless you have the special presser foot for your machine, which I didn’t. But now that I’ve gotten older and more patient I’ve learned to love bias tape. It adds a great detail, like on these Coastal Cargos (my pattern).

Bias tape detail on Coastal Cargos pattern by Blank Slate Patterns

And of course you can’t get that kind of fabric when you buy pre-packaged tape, so I’ve also learned to make my own, which I will show you today.

What Is Bias Tape?

So, what is bias tape? Let’s go back to thinking about grainlines. Bias tape is fabric that is cut on the bias grain. Then it has the raw edges folded and pre-pressed to the wrong side. Because it is cut on the bias, it can stretch a little, even though it’s typically made of woven fabric. The bias grain also allows the tape to be pressed into curved shapes. This means it’s good for finishing curved edges like necklines. It can also be a nice decorative touch of contrast. It can be used to finish seams , hems and raw edges or add a decorative touch to a garment, or both. Below are some examples of how I’ve used bias tape.

Tank top with green bias tape finishing neckline and armholes

The tank top pictured above features a neckline and armholes finished with double fold bias tape. And yes, you can use woven fabric bias tape to finish a knit garment.

Double Fold Bias Tape sewing to finish a waistband

The insides of my Tillery Skirt pictured above also feature double fold bias tape to finish the waistband. This method results in less bulk than turning the seam allowance of the denim to the wrong side.

Neckline of a shirt finished with single fold bias tape

And the neckline of the Hathaway Tank above is finished with bias tape for a thin width and clean finish that doesn’t require a facing.

Types – Single and Double Fold

Since there are examples of both single and double fold bias tape above, let’s talk about the differences between the two. Single fold bias tape has the edges folded once, double fold has the edges folded twice. You can see examples of each below.

Single fold vs double fold bias tape

Essentially, double fold bias tape starts out as single fold tape, and then you fold it in half and press again to get the double fold. A main difference between the two is that in order to use the double fold type, you want to make sure there is no seam allowance, as the tape will finish right to the raw edge of the main fabric. With single fold tape you need a seam allowance equal to half the width of the tape.

Make Your Own

Bias tape is sold in packages at the fabric store, but lately I have really enjoyed making my own. It’s especially satisfying once you learn the continuous method to cut the fabric into bias strips. You can get yards of bias tape out of a fat quarter with this method, and you only have to sew two seams! Watch the video below or on YouTube here to see how that’s done, or head to this post for written instructions.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).

I just got some of these Clover bias tips

(affiliate link) and I love how they help me quickly iron my cut strips into folded bias binding.

Mint green floral print fabric bias tape and bias tape maker

Bias tape makers like these are usually available in the quilting tools section of the fabric store and easy to find online. But now that I understand how they work, I got to thinking – what if you don’t have one? What if you need a non-standard size of bias tape?

The easiest tip I’ve seen is to use a long straight pin, and pin it through the fabric of your ironing board at the finished width you need. The thread the bias strip under the pin and it will help fold the fabric as you pull it through and iron it. Make sure the pin you use had a pin head that will not melt near the See the example below with my favorite type of glass head pins (affiliate link).

Trick for making your own bias tape without a bias tape maker - use a long straight pin on your ironing board

To make double fold tape you would first make single fold tape, then you fold the single fold in half and line up the edges and iron again. I don’t use a jig or a tip for this part, it’s not too hard to iron in one fold.

How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape

First I’m going to show you how to use double fold bias tape. This type of tape wraps around the raw edge of the fabric. Because of that, you don’t need a seam allowance to use this as a finish. I made a video which you can watch below or on YouTube here showing how to sew double fold tape.

How to miter corners

The double fold tape video above shows how to miter around a corner with your binding, but here’s a still image visual too.

How to - bias tape corner - Melly Sews

Your can also find a written tutorial for bias corners in this post.

How to Sew Single Fold Bias Tape

Sewing single fold tape is slightly different. Because you’ll be folding in the raw edge of the fabric under the tape, you do need a seam allowance equal to half the width of the tape. Here’s a video showing how to do it, which you can also watch on YouTube here. If you prefer a written tutorial, check out this post.

Now have some fun making your own bias tape and using it to add a professional looking finish and a pop of color and pattern to your sewing!  Until next time, happy sewing.

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