Why Does My Sewing Machine Keep Unthreading? A Checklist

Why Does My Sewing Machine Keep Unthreading? A Checklist


Is your sewing machine unthreading? Find out why your thread keeps coming out of the needle and what to do here.

How to fix a sewing machine unthreading

Hey y’all, today we’re going to tackle problems with a sewing machine unthreading. When I taught sewing in public school, I always had students who had trouble with this. It can be sooooo frustrating to start sewing your fabric just to realize your needle has no thread and there are no stitches. This post will cover reasons why your needle keeps unthreading and what to do about them so you don’t have to constantly rethread.

Reason #1: The Takeup Lever Isn’t at the Top

The video below summarizes what to do if your needle is unthreading as you begin sewing. This is one of the most common reasons for unthreading. You can also watch on YouTube here if you prefer. And further in this post I have more troubleshooting tips to check for sewing machine unthreading problems.

Take up lever on a sewing machine

The number one reason my students had issues with their needle unthreading was that they would stop stitching without their needle in the highest position possible. Then they would cut their thread. On the next seam there wasn’t enough thread to reach the sewing machine needle as the take up lever went up. And boom, unthreaded needle!

You can tell if your needle is all the way up by looking at the take up lever. On vintage machines the take up lever might stick out. You can see it on n my vintage Singer sewing machine pictured below. But on newer machines it might be hidden behind the machine casing. On newer machines there is a window so that you can make sure the lever is all the way up. I told my students to always crank the handwheel toward them until they could see the take up lever at the top before releasing their presser foot and cutting the thread.

Vintage sewing machine, copyright Melly Sews, all rights reserved.

My sewing machine now has a feature with the automatic thread cutter that makes sure the take up lever is all the way up automatically before it cuts the thread. I love that because this problem isn’t one I run into very often anymore.

Reason #2: The Machine is Not Threaded Correctly

Baby Lock Elizabeth sewing machine - mellysews.com

If you are sure the take up lever is at the top, but you still have a sewing machine needle unthreading, the next thing to check is to make sure your machine is threaded the correct way. If this is a new to you machine, make sure you’ve read the user manual. Some machines have particular quirks for threading. Most machines do follow a similar thread path though. Even with an old familiar machine, it’s possible to accidentally skip a step. So try releasing the presser foot, unthreading the machine, and rethreading. Make sure to do this both with the top thread and the bobbin thread.

One other common mistake I see is trying to thread with the presser foot down. On the majority of machines this means the tension discs are engaged. If you thread with the tension engaged, the thread won’t sit properly in the discs and you’ll have issues when you start stitching.

Thread - Read about the 5 Sewing Supplies Every Beginner Needs - Beginner Sewing Tools - Melly Sews

Reason #3: There Is A Problem With The Thread or Needle

If your thread is too thick for the eye of your needle, it will shred and you’ll have thread breaks. This can also happen when using old or low quality thread. You can see more about thread types and weights here. And you can see more about machine needles here. The bottom line is to make sure that your needle and thread are matched. Don’t use the wrong needle for your thread.

One other thread problem to check is if the spool of thread unwinds smoothly. Sometimes it can get wrapped around the spool pin, or caught on a nick in the spool cap. Correct those issues and you won’t have your sewing machine unthreading.

Thread breaking - how to fix sewing machine problems - Melly Sews

Needle problems can include a bent needle,

Reason #4: There is a Tension Problem

Right side and wrong side of a line of stitching on denim to show balanced and correct sewing machine tension

The interplay of the upper thread tension and bobbin tension creates must be balanced. If you don’t have correct tension, your thread can break and unthread your needle. You can see more about tension in this post. I include a visual example of how the top and bottom threads work together. Understanding that interplay helps you identify which way to adjust the tension dial.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why your sewing machine might be unthreading. These include:

  • Take up lever not all the way up
  • An incorrectly threaded machine
  • Problems with thread or needle or the combination of the two
  • Problems with the sewing machine tension

Hopefully this post has given you a good idea of what to look for so you can return to happy sewing!





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The Edit: New Sewing Pattern Releases – 2nd October 2022

The Edit: New Sewing Pattern Releases – 2nd October 2022





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Turtleneck Dress Pattern – Effortless Elegance

Turtleneck Dress Pattern – Effortless Elegance


Winter is coming… And along with the season is the need to look stylish while keeping warm. The turtleneck has been a mainstay of fashion for a long time, with the simple addition of fabric giving the wearer a surprising amount of warmth while providing a unique look and profile.

This Turtleneck Dress Pattern is for someone looking for an elegant look and all the benefits of the turtleneck but without the effort of making an overly-elaborate dress.

The dress fits close to the body, to skim your silhouette while not being too tight. This means the dress can be easily paired with additional outwear as needed.

The turtleneck itself keeps you surprisingly warm for such a small addition. This is due to the fabric covering the large and important carotid artery, through which the entirety of your body’s blood supply passes at high pressure. If you are super cold, layering a scarf on top of the turtleneck will provide an excellent amount of insulation.

Of course, any cold-weather garment should have long sleeves for extra warmth and the whole piece is long enough to be paired with high boots or booties for a more fashionable look.

Materials

  • 1 1/2 to 2 yards of stretch velvet
  • thread to match

Tools

Fabric Recommendations from Amazon.com

Sewing Skill: Confident Beginner

This project is suitable for confident beginners or intermediates. The shapes are simple and elegant. However, due to its figure-fitting nature, you may have to make extra adjustments to your particular body shape.

Take note that there is no seam allowance included with the pattern. I recommend a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Body Measurements

Size S M L XL 2XL 3XL
Bust 32-34 34-36 37-39 41-43 45-47 49-51
Waste 24 27 30 33 38 41
Hips 33 37 40 43 48 52

How To Download Your Turtleneck Dress Pattern

We’re going to continue to use the new Payhip web store to distribute our patterns. 

Our patterns are still free, but now you now have the option of making a small contribution if you like our work! We’d really appreciate it and it will help is keep going with new and fun designs like this. Even a dollar or two really goes a long way.

Thanks so much in advance for helping us out.  You can use any credit card and you don’t need a Paypal account, although you can use one if you have one.

Download Pattern HERE

Please use Adobe Reader to open and print the pattern.  Adobe Reader is completely free and no other software is required.  Print using Actual Size and Landscape Mode.

Turtleneck Dress Pattern Layout

turtleneck dress pattern

How To Make Your Turtleneck Dress

Please remember that there is no seam allowance included with the pattern. I recommend a 3/8″ seam allowance.

We will start sewing at the shoulders.

Step One:  Sewing The Bodice

Align the front and back of the dress print side facing each other.

Sew the shoulders (1) using a serger with four threads or your sewing machine using a small three steps zigzag.

Turtleneck Dress Pattern

Sew the side of the dress. Make a slit on the left of the dress.

Serge the sides of the dress separately from the hem to the end of the slit, then join the dress matching the slits and serge from the armhole to the slit.

Serge the other side of the dress from the armhole to the hem.

Step Three: Attaching The Sleeve

Sew along the arm (1) using a 3-step zigzag or your serger.

Attach the sleeve to the bodice (2), ensuring you attach the back of the sleeve to the back of the dress. There is a small notch on the sleeve to let you know what side is the front of the sleeve.

Turtleneck Dress pattern

Step Three: Making The Collar

Measure the opening of the neckline and subtract 2″ from the measurement.

Turtleneck Dress Pattern

On a piece of paper, draw a rectangle that is the length of the measurement you got above with a height of six inches and three-quarter inches (17 cm).

If you want a certain height for your turtle neck you can increase or decrease this measurement here. Everyone’s neck can be slightly different so don’t be afraid of measuring yourself to make sure you’ll be happy.

Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise. Sew forming a band.

Fold the band from top to bottom. Mark the band in four places.

Turtleneck Dress Pattern

Align the stitching line of the neckband to the back of the dress.

Align the other three marks with the corresponding parts of the neckline.

Turtleneck Dress Pattern

Step Four: Finishing Your Dress

All we need now is to hem the bodice and the sleeve. Use your serger or your cover stitch. If you do not have either, turn the hem and use any of the stretchable stitches in your sewing machine.

Turn and sew the hem first.

Turn the slit and sew.

I’m first going to try and pair this dress with some boots and a warm vest. Let me know in the comments below what look you’ll be going for.

Now is the perfect time to get ahead of the curve and piece together a stylish and robust fall and winter wardrobe. Look forward to more easy and fun projects like this turtleneck dress pattern. Until Next Time, Happy Sewing!


If You’d Like To Support Our Site

If you want to help us continue to bring you a wide selection of free sewing patterns and projects, please consider buying us a coffee.  We’d really, really appreciate it.

recycling old placemats



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Now You Can Even Add Images to Your Comments: Share Your Work!

Now You Can Even Add Images to Your Comments: Share Your Work!


comment images

Regular readers and especially those who comment often (we LOOOVE comments and so do our readers) may have noticed that we recently added a new feature to the so-sew-easy.com website.

You can now easily attach images to your comments on so-sew-easy.com.  Files types supported are standard .jpg, .gif and .png files.  Almost all images these days are in one of these three formats so I don’t think you’ll have any issues.

image comments

For iPhones, iPads, and Android it is particularly easy to attach images to your comments.  When you’re viewing the comment section of our website and would like to share an image, just click the little paperclip button in the comment section and let your device post the image directly to your comment.

The phone or tablet will give you the choice of using the inbuilt camera to take a new picture or selecting an existing image from your gallery on the phone.  Just take the picture or select the image file, write your comment and hit save.  That’s it!

From a desktop computer, it’s even easier.  Just click the little paperclip and “Attach an image to this comment” and select the image you want to attach.  Write your comment and save.  That’s it!

Ours is a family-oriented site, so we do take the time to review each comment and picture before it’s published so you may not see it immediately.  Just give us a few hours and you’ll be live.

Thanks to a reader Brenda for being so quick to take advantage of this new feature and sharing an example of the linen blouse she’d like to make:

I’d really like to encourage readers to share images of their finished work or even of the sewing problems they are having.  It will make it much easier for me and other readers to understand what is going on and to offer potential solutions.

So what are you waiting for?  Please give it a try and share your work.

Until next time, happy sewing and happy sharing!



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The Perfect Baby Burp Cloth Pattern

The Perfect Baby Burp Cloth Pattern


The perfect baby burp cloth pattern, and how to sew them production line style.

I’m just so excited to be sewing for my 3 friends who are all expecting.  Gives me a chance to knock out lots of small projects from time to time, and take a break from some of the larger projects, pattern designing, and fitting issues that clothes sewing gives me.

I was pestering one of the moms-to-be – what can I sew you, what do you really need, or don’t have enough of, or really used a lot first time round.  Wait a minute she said and came back with – a rag.  Er, what is that and what did you use it for?  Apparently, it’s a burp cloth – something new to me, but she explained she used cloths like this ALL the time and everywhere for mopping up spills, mopping up babies and toddlers, mopping up baby sick, wiping runny noses, mopping up food, etc etc.  And when nursing, she explained the proper use of draping the ‘rag’ over your shoulder while burping baby in case of any up-chuck down your back and clothes.  Nice thought.

The perfect baby burp cloth pattern, and how to sew them production line style.

So you want me to make you some like this.  Yes – exactly like this, except:

  • a bit wider
  • not so long
  • shaped so they sit better on the shoulder
  • thicker
  • without the binding
  • and in nice pretty fabrics

Right, so exactly like that one, but completely different.  I get it.  And she wants lots of them.  OK.  I switched to production line mode and sewed up a bunch.  And they are pretty neat and pretty quick to sew.

How to sew the perfect baby burp cloth pattern – fast!

You will need (to make 3):

  • fat quarter of nice cotton  (baby style or something nicer for mom)
  • fat quarter of terry toweling fabric or a cheap towel
  • the pattern – download below (sized to fit 3 on a FQ)
  • about 10 minutes

Download the Perfect Baby Burp Cloth pattern

You can download the pattern and instructions for the Perfect Baby Burp Cloth from my design account at Payhip.  It’s a PDF file containing both instructions and pattern all in the same file.  Enjoy!

I’ll be making 3 at once to save time so I can sew up a nice big bundle of these for each of the moms.

Watch me make them production line style

Subscribe to the YouTube channel:

 

I made all these, including stopping to make the video, in about an hour.  I’ll make up similar bundles for the other two moms.

The perfect baby burp cloth pattern, and how to sew them production line style.

I’m rather keen on these myself.  I don’t think a baby will be coming our way, but these would be perfect cleaning cloths.  Really hard wearing, a scrubby absorbent side and a lint-free smoother side for windows and mirrors.  Good to keep in the car too. Then throw them in the washer, again and again.  Very eco-friendly.  You could omit the shaping and make them square for cleaning.

The perfect baby burp cloth pattern, and how to sew them production line style.

Download the Perfect Baby Burp Cloth pattern

You can download the pattern and instructions for the Perfect Baby Burp Cloth from my design account at Payhip.  It’s a PDF file containing both instructions and pattern all in the same file.  Enjoy!

Want more ideas for things you can sew for babies or for baby shower gifts?  I’ve got lots of fun and easy ideas.  Check out some more ideas here:

Sewing for babies. Lots of great stuff her for the new arrival, great baby shower gifts to sew.

If You’d Like To Support Our Site

If you want to help us continue to bring you a wide selection of free sewing patterns and projects, please consider buying us a coffee.  We’d really, really appreciate it.




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40+ FREE Linen Sewing Projects & Patterns

40+ FREE Linen Sewing Projects & Patterns


Linen Sewing Projects

You’ll want to check out these free linen sewing projects

Linen is one of my favorite fabrics for spring, summer, and autumn. It is a versatile and natural material that can go with almost anything. You can make both casual and elegant garments and not even worry about wrinkles!

If you like this wonderful fabric as I do, you make want to check out this super quick History of Linen to learn more about this long history of this wonderful textile.

Linen Sewing Projects

Why not try one of our most popular patterns ever?

Our Linen V-Top Pattern has been downloaded many thousands of times. I’m sure you’ll like it tool.

Linen Sewing Projects and Patterns Roundup

Here’s a huge list of some of the best linen sewing projects and patterns I could find on the internet. I’m sure you’ll love them. Hover over the picture to show the title, click to open, or right-click and open in a new tab to keep this page open too. And don’t forget to pin it.


If You’d Like To Support Our Site

If you want to help us continue to bring you a wide selection of free sewing patterns and projects, please consider buying us a coffee.  We’d really, really appreciate it.

Once you’ve made your linen sewing projects, you’ll need to know how to care for them. We’ve got you covered. Please just have a read of the article below on linen fabric care.



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The Sew Down – October

The Sew Down – October





The Sew Down – October – The Fold Line





















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A Detailed Guide To Sew A Free Peasant Top Pattern

A Detailed Guide To Sew A Free Peasant Top Pattern


Learn to sew a peasant top pattern for women. This free peasant blouse sewing pattern is easy to make and wear.

How to sew a peasant top with a free sewing pattern for women

Hey y’all, today I’m going to show you how to sew a peasant top pattern. I’m also sharing a free pattern, video tutorial and a couple of variations of this peasant top pattern. It was bound to happen eventually…kind of like the Pillowcase Dress, how to sew a peasant blouse is another of the most searched for and requested tutorials on sewing blogs, including this one.

Belted Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

I think peasant blouses are popular because they’re loose and fit a lot of figures without having to do bust adjustments or other fitting. So, today I’m sharing a free pattern for my women’s peasant top. I even used this pattern to make the cropped and off the shoulder version below.

Cropped peasant top pattern

Best Peasant Top Fabrics

Fabrics with a lot of drape work best for this style of top. Otherwise it can look rather tent like. The examples in this post are sewn from cotton voile (white cropped version) rayon challis (red waist length version) and polyester crepe (navy blue version). Stretch fabrics can also work well, just be careful of the weight. Lightweight knits are best. Other suitable fabrics include gauze, lawn, batiste, silk charmeuse, lightweight linen, etc.

The versions of the pattern in this post have an elastic neck. But you can also do a drawstring neck like I did in the blue short sleeve version featured in this Reel (it’s the dark blue geometric print) or elastic shirring like I did in the dress version I made featured in this post.

Woman in a waist length peasant top

Materials to Sew a Peasant Top

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).

To make your top, you’ll need:

  • 2 yards of 60″ wide fabric. Make it 2 1/2 yards if your fabric is 45″ wide.
  • 1 yard of 1/2″ wide single fold bias tape
  • 1 yard of 3/8″ or 1/4″ inch wide elastic
  • Safety pin or bodkin (affiliate link) to pull the elastic through the casings. Note that while I love my bodkin, mine is too wide to pull through the narrow casing on this pattern. Other bodkin styles might work better.
  • optional – elastic thread (affiliate link)
  • The pdf pattern, see below
Woman in a peasant top and jeans outfit

How to Get the Free Downloadable PDF Pattern

The pattern is in a women’s size 36″ hips. The hip measurement is actually the most important here, since there’s lots of gathering and ease around the bust.  If you need to make the pattern bigger or smaller, check out this post.
To get this pattern, click your preferred option from the buttons below as a newsletter subscriber or gallery access pass purchaser. Note that the free version of the pattern does not have printable instructions.

Please note that all my free patterns are licensed for personal use only (no selling items made from this unless you purchase it) and by downloading you are agreeing to this license.

Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

How to Sew a Peasant Top Sewing Pattern

To sew your peasant blouse, watch the video below or on YouTube here if it won’t load below for some reason. Or scroll below the video for written instructions.

So, print and cut out your pattern pieces. Need help with printing? Check this post.

In the video above, I used French seam finishes. This post has more details on French seaming.

To assemble the shirt, first pin the front edge of the sleeve piece to the bodice front, right sides together. Repeat with the other sleeve on the other side of the front. Stitch and finish the seams. I used French seams to sew mine.

Step 1 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews
Step 1 finished - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

Then pin the back sleeve edges to the bodice back right sides together. Stitch and finish the seams.

Step 2 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

Fold the shirt in half, right sides together, matching the underarm seams. Stitch down the sleeve and side seams in one long seam and finish the seams.

Step 3 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

Unfold bias tape and pin right sides together to the neck edge of the shirt. Start at center back, and fold the short raw edge of the bias tape up 1/4″. Pin around the neckline until you get back to your starting point, fold the bias tape so it meets the fold you made to begin with, and then cut off the excess. Stitch around the neckline in the fold closest to the raw edge.

Step 4 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews
Close up of step 4 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

Turn the bias tape to the inside of the neckline and press. Stitch as close as possible to the free edge of the tape to secure it in place.

Step 5 - Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews

Cut 23 -26″ of elastic – the longer your elastic, the lower cut and/or wider in the shoulders your shirt will hang. Thread the elastic through the casing made by the bias tape.

peasant-top-4-2

Hem the bottom and sleeves by folding fabric to the wrong side 1/4″ twice.

To gather the sleeves, you can either sew in a bias tape casing like you did for the neckline, or use elastic thread. If you choose to do a casing, sew 1″ from the sleeve hems. If you want to use elastic thread, wind it on your bobbin (hand wind if you have a side loading bobbin, machine wind if you have a drop in bobbin) and use a long stitch length, then sew 2-3 rows 1/2″ in from the sleeve hem. This post shows how you shirr with elastic thread if you’ve never done it before.

peasant-top-5

MORE PEASANT TOP STYLING CAVEATS

  • Peasant tops often look best with a belt.  So you look like you have a waist. You can play with both skinny and wide belts, but definitely try one
  • Since this top has a lot of volume, keep the bottoms slim. Skinny jeans, leggings, a pencil skirt – all of these work well with a peasant top.
  • Play with sleeve length. Since we’re going into fall, I wanted an elbow sleeve, but short or long sleeves can also look nice. You might not even want to gather the sleeves – bell sleeves in both long and short lengths can be fun too.
  • If you’re up for it, you can even try wearing this top off the shoulder. Opt for longer elastic if that’s your plan.
  • Consider adding a  placket – you can do it like this tutorial, and then add a drawstring instead of elastic to tie it in front. You don’t even have to do buttonholes if you make the placket fairly short.
  • But please, please, don’t add ruffles to the neckline. You run the risk of looking clownish. Especially if the ruffles are wide.
Red print peasant blouse and custom embroidered jeans outfit
Women's Peasant Top Pattern - Sew a Peasant Top - Melly Sews





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The Edit: New Sewing Pattern Releases – 25th September 2022

The Edit: New Sewing Pattern Releases – 25th September 2022





The Edit: New Sewing Pattern Releases – 25th September 2022 – The Fold Line





















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Boho Chic Black Dress Pattern – Great For Casual Fridays

Boho Chic Black Dress Pattern – Great For Casual Fridays


Boho Chic Black Dress Pattern

This is the Boho-chic little black dress pattern to make a great casual look for Fridays. This dress is easy to make and even easier to wear.  Notice the gathered sleeves,

Boho Chic Black Dress Pattern

the invisible zipper,

boho chic little black dress pattern

and two tiers of ruffles, so you do not spend hours and hours gathering fabric.  And more importantly, it makes a youthful, but appropriately short dress.

boho chic little black dress pattern

It’s perfect for the office, for a get together with the girls, to pick up the kids or carry a baby bump and go trick or treating.

boho chic little black dress pattern

I would team this little black dress with booties, stockings and a short leather jacket.

Materials

  • 2 – 2 1/4 yards of fabric
  • thread to match
  • 18-inch invisible nylon zipper
  • 1/2 yard of 3/8″ elastic (optional)
  • 1 yard of 1/2″ bias tape

Tools

  • sewing machine
  • overlocker
  • invisible zipper foot
  • rotary cutter or scissors

My Fabric Recommendations from Fabric.com

Skill Level: Intermediate

Knowledge of sewing an invisible zipper, sewing a dart, and gathering fabric appropriately is a must or a willingness to learn and follow the separate tutorials.

There is no seam allowance on these boho-chic little black dress pattern, I recommend the use of 5/8″.

Here are some helpful resources if you need a quick review:

1.  How to Sew Darts

2.  Sewing an Invisible Zipper

3.  How to gather fabric the right way

4.  Attaching a bias tape to a neckline

How To Download Your Little Black Dress Pattern

We’re going to continue to use the new Payhip web store to distribute our patterns.  As most readers know, Craftsy, now Bluprint, has changed a lot and they have stopped designers like us from publishing new patterns on their site, so we’ve had to move to another service.

Our patterns are still free, but now you now have the option of making a small contribution if you like our work! We’d really appreciate it and it will help is keep going with new and fun designs like this. Even a dollar or two really goes a long way.

Thanks so much in advance for helping us out.  You can use any credit card and you don’t need a Paypal account, although you can use one if you have one.

Download Pattern HERE

Please use Adobe Reader to open and print the pattern.  Adobe Reader is completely free and no other software is required.  Print using Actual Size and Landscape Mode.

New Reference Squares

Taping together the So Sew Easy patterns is causing a little confusion among some readers.  I have changed the circle for the one-inch square.  All you have to do is trim or overlap the pages just a bit so the square is formed.  There are lines on the pages to help you to achieve the appropriate alignment.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Pattern Layout

Sizes

This dress is a loose-fitting garment, the following are the finished measurements per size.   Please Allow 4 to 6 inches at the bust of ease.

  S M L XL 2XL
Underbust 32 35 1/2 39 43 49
Bust 38 1/2 42 45 1/2 49 1/2 53 1/2

Cutting measurements for the skirt

Measurements are given in inches. If you need to convert them here is a great resource.  https://www.inches-to-cm.com/

  S M L XL 2XL
Tier 1 49 53 57 61 65
Length 6 6.5 7 7.5 8
Tier 2 72 76 80 84 88
Length 18 18.5 19 19.5 20

How To Sew Your Dress

Note: Apologies! The back and the sleeve are miss labeled, but you will not have a hard time knowing which is which.

For the purpose of this tutorial, I am going to use white thread on black fabric.  Please don’t do this to your dress, it looks dreadful, I’m doing it so the thread will show up on the camera.

Step One:  Sew The Dart

Sew the dart in the back and the inverted pleat at the front.

Step Two: Sewing The Bodice

Sew the shoulder and serge the fabric both seam allowances together.  Iron towards the back.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Sew the sides, but just 1/3 up leaving the armhole side open. We’re going to attach the sleeves first, then do the fitting before we finish sewing the sides and the armhole.  Serge the side seams open.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Step Three:  Sew The Sleeves

Sew two rows of stitching at 1/4″.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Gather the sleeves toward the center notch.

boho chic little black dress pattern
boho chic little black dress pattern

Pin the center of the sleeve using the notch to the shoulders seam.  Make sure you know which is front and the back of the sleeve.  The front is represented by a notch in your pattern.  Sew the sleeve leaving a gap at the armhole.

boho chic little black dress pattern
boho chic little black dress pattern

Sew the sleeve from the wrist to the armhole leaving about two inches open.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Fitting:  At this point, you can put the blouse on and work out if the sides are comfortable.  If you decide to give yourself a bit more room, here is what you can do:

Reducing the seam allowance to 3/8″ will give you an extra 1/2″ per side, in total will add one inch to the bottom of the bodice.  reducing the seam allowance to 1/4″ will give you an extra 3/4″ per side or 1  1/2 ” to the bottom of the bodice.

When taking out or using the seam allowance to make the dress slightly larger remember to do the same at the sleeve seam so the armhole matches with the bodice.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Likewise, if you decide to bring in the sides a little, you can take in the side, gradually, without changing the size of the armhole.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Close the side seam.

Close the arm seam then sew the armhole.

Serge the sleeve hem making sure the seam allowance is open.

Add the elastic to the sleeve.

Step Four:  Sewing The First And Second Of The Skirt

Please see the tutorial on how to gather fabric properly.  It is imperative you do a good job to avoid the dress looking sad.

Divide both strips of fabric into four equal parts, mark it with a notch, a pin or tailor’s chalk.  Pin the left notch the left side seam and the right notch to the right side seam.  Pin the center back to the center back of the bodice.  Gather between these points.  Sew the tiers then serge reducing the seam allowance to 3/8″.

boho chic little black dress pattern
boho chic little black dress pattern

Step Five:  Attach The Invisible Zipper

The use of an invisible zipper foot is imperative if you want very professional-looking results.  Please refer to the tutorial above.  This is an excellent video and worth the effort to watch.

Step Six: Sew The Elastic To The Wrist

This is an optional step:

Serge the hem of the sleeve.  Working with the wrong side of your sleeve.  Insert the elastic on the sleeve and then insert the sleeve in the arm of your machine.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Move the elastic 1/2″ from the serged edge and fold the fabric over the elastic.  Sew at 3/8″ without catching the elastic.

boho chic little black dress pattern

Step Seven: Finishing The Neckline

Work on the right side of the fabric.

Unfold the first crease of the bias tape and pin the edge of the tape to the edge of the neckline, leaving 1/2″ passed the zipper on both sides of the neckline.

Turn the end of the bias tape in.

boho chic little black dress pattern

fold in the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric and stitch the tape at 3/8″.

boho chic little black dress pattern

This is the end of the tutorial on how to use this boho-chic little black dress pattern.  I don’t need to make a hem because I am using a fabric that has a border with embroidery and lace giving my dress a sort of Halloween/Goth look to it.  Perhaps I will wear it when the children in the neighborhood come for trick or treating.

Last year I hid behind the door because I forgot to pick up candy for the children, as they left my door I heard them saying “so lame” and “boring people”, boo!!!!. I felt very guilty for some reason. The following year I was working all day and forgot about trick or treating altogether and just put a bowl of candy outside my door hoping kids would just pick a few and leave some for the rest.  Nope! one child took all the candy and ran away laughing so again I got booed!!!  I’ll let you know what I come up with this year.  Now at least I got my dress!

I hope you liked this boho-chic little black dress pattern.  If you feel like it change the fabric to a soft color and you will have a very romantic soft dress to wear.  Don’t forget to check my suggestions from fabric.com

Until next time happy sewing!

recycling old placemats
Boho Chic Black Dress Pattern

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